Friday 9 November 2012

The coast of Uruguay


In Uruguay we entered the spring. However, last week's temperature makes me feel like summer time. The temperature doesn't drop below 25°C, nor at night. It is just warm all day long. At 8pm people sit outside their houses on summer-chairs sipping mate,talking with neighbours and not moving much... Two hours later you can see them still outside eating dinner, with sparkling eyes and smiling faces... Yeah, the winter is over and this is the weather we like.

Aguas Dulces
And as I waited more than one year for the summer, I do enjoy very much. I am warm 24 hours a day!! :) Gradually, we started discovering the coastline of Uruguay. There is more than 600 kms of coastline.  Last weekend we arrived up to Aguas Dulces which is in the department of Rocha. From there we walked to Valizas where we found beautiful colourful and wooden cottages and as a surprise sand dunes. When we walked in sand, I had a feeling that I was on a dessert. Another day we got to Cabo Polonio which is a sort of hippie/alteranative place in Uruguay. All the musicians, 'artesanos' come here to spend summer here. It has an atmosphere of love and peace :) However, I did appreciate a bit more Valizas and Aguas Dulces because they seem to me more authentic and less touristic. 
Aguas Dulces

Moreover, it is quite easy to wander in Uruguay with a backpack and smile. We sleep under the sky and try to recognize some new constellantions, because the Plough doesn't appear here. We swim in the ocean and walk in sand.
Morning and getting up

Typical cottage in the coast, Aguas Dulces


Valizas, a bit of philosophy - If we think local, we act global. Doing small actions we can achieve big dreams.

Today perhaps we open at 20:30 :) This is the attitude!!


Aguas Dulces, another cottage... if somebody wants to give me one, I won't say no :)

You wake up, open the window, see the ocean, have a morning mate, then you go swimming, fish some lunch and then siesta... in the afternoon-evening once more to the ocean, walking on the beach, watching the sunset and listening to the sounds of waves and falling asleep with millions of stars above. 


Valizas.. sand dunes

It seems like a desset, doesn't it? Luckily, there is the ocean just a few metres 

Ocean - heading to Cabo Polonio
Ocean and dessert

Jellyfish
Seals and sea lions in Cabo Polonio
Seals and sea lions live here in a colony and you can observe them playing in water

The dawn in Atlántida






Fishing at dusk





The dusk at Cabo Polonio

Wednesday 7 November 2012

North of Uruguay



Few weeks ago we had holiday and we decided with Lucka to go to discover the interior of Uruguay. As I heard a lot about Paysandú, Salto, Rivera, I wanted to see it on my proper eyes. I was told that the countryside changes significantly crossing Río Negro. However, I did not know what it meant precisely. So we went. Well, before this trip I thought that the department of Colonia is quite uninhabitated... However, I changed my mind after getting to know the north. Once being up the river, there one can mainly see cows and cows, sheep and sheep and one farm in 30 kilometres. It is an immense area where only few people live.

Chorizo, bread and wine.
As we travel by hitchhiking, we meet a lot of people. And some moments are impacting. As we started from two directions, me from Colonia and Lucka from Montevideo we had a meeting point on the road. Of course, we passed each other :) When I got out, I changed the direction and was heading back; I thought why it had happened like this. Soon the answer was there. Carlos, who stopped me, was heading to Río Negro. So we picked up Lucka and continued up to north. We shared some funny moments and said goodbye with home-made chorizo, Czech bread and a glass of wine – home-made.
Lucka, Carlos y yo
As we got to Salto, we spent one night close to the thermal spa and we tried its hot water. There are altogether four thermal spas around Salto and people come there all year long, even in the summer when it is very hot. As I learnt on the way, there is even one thermal spa with salt water close to Paysandú.
Close to the city of Salto there is a huge dam which is possible to cross only by car (not possible to walk there) and cross the border to Argentina. 

In Salto we met with Bara and Monika (two Slovakian volunteers) who were coming from Paraguay (hitchhiking) and traveled together for a while. We wanted to go to Tacuarembó which is a department with many hills and beautiful natural places. We were advised not to take the direct smaller road from Salto to Tacuarembó (31), because there is no traffic. However, we tried and the first car lifted all four of us.
 
Hitchhiking in Uruguay

Uruguayan farm

Tacuarembó


And then we just enjoyed the countryside, hills, cows, sheep…and walk and walk. There were many beautiful moments, places, people we met. I was impressed how significantly the countryside changes above Río Negro. We visited an old closed goldmine close to a small town Minas de Corrales where the goldmine still works. 

The old goldmine
Still the old goldmine

Goldmine III

Between the main road and the goldmine we saw the flat hills.
Three flat hills

The flat hill which is unique for its ´dwarf´palms butia which grow on the top
'Dwarf' palms on the top of the flat hill
We came to Rivera which is a city on the border between Uruguay and Brasil. And that day there was a holiday which commemorates Farroupilha revolution. The city was full of 'gaucho' who were riding their horses and parading several hours.




When we went back we passed through Tacuarembó and visited the museum of 'gaucho and indio' where lot of mate can be seen.
 

And the last days we spent in 'Valle Edén' where the Museum of Carlos Gardel is. Carlos Gardel was a famous tango singer whose voice is declared as UNESCO world heritage. There is a long dispute bettwen Argentina and Uruguay if he was Uruguayan or Argentinian. The newest theory says that he was born in France.
Carlos Gardel: 'I was born here, in Tacuarembó....' :)
The cementary of Indians

Sunset
Our shelter
Getting up


There are lot of stories to tell, because people in the north are very polite, cordial and hospitable. 

Once we entered a home-shop to buy some food for lunch and as we started talking to
We started talking about the weather; we introduced a bit ourselves and explained what we were doing there. Meanwhile we were choosing food. When we had everything, the old lady offered us to eat our lunch outside in their frontyard at the table. We were glad and accepted. In a minute she asked us if we knew ‘poroto’ (beans) and in a minute she was bringing two plates with delicious food. At the same time her husband ex-miner joined us and began explaining us how it worked in a mine and showed us old magazines to get a better picture. Finally, he gave us two stones where gold was shining.
There were moments like this on this way and I realized again that there are many good people in the world. It gave my faith and I continue believing in people.
Small town in the north
Valle Edén






Near 'Valle Eden' on the top of the hill